Liquorice (Mulethi) Extract for Acne & Pigmentation Guide

Mulethi (liquorice) is a traditional herbal ingredient that is used in the modern skincare formulations as an active ingredient for its natural brightening effects.

Research also suggests that the extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra/mulethi has potential influence on the melanin production as well as inflammation that makes it a very interesting plant based source to prevent and manage the acne and the pigmentation on the skin.

The key phytoconstituents responsible for its beneficial effects include:

Glabridin
Liquiritin
Isoliquiritigenin, etc.

The Science Behind The Activity Of Licorice Against Acne

Helps Reduce Pigmentation

Glabridin is basically a phytoconstituent from Licorice that has effective activity to suppress the enzyme tyrosinase (mainly responsible for the melanin pigment production).

Prevents Post Acne marks

Inflammation during the acne can literally stimulate the excess melanin production (common with darker Indian skin tones). Licorice is a powerful active ingredient to fight the inflammation induced on the skin barrier due to breakouts with its anti-inflammatory action and prevents the appearance of post-acne marks with its pigment-modulating properties in a gradual manner.

Soothes Redness

The active phytoconstituents including flavonoids in the extracts of mulethi provide gentle soothing action to the skin barrier with its powerful anti-inflammatory properties.

Provides Anti-Oxidant Support

The dehydrogenase and flavonoids rich liquorice extract provides the free radical scavenging effect that supports the skin barrier with anti-oxidant support.

How Licorice Can Support an Acne Damaged Skin Barrier?

When you may be dealing with skin vulnerable to recurring pimples on a compromised skin barrier due to:

Over-cleansing
Excessively vigorous scrubbing
Overuse of exfoliating acids
Multiple acne treatments

This may contribute to the worsening of skin condition with:

Tightness
Dryness
Hypersensitivity
Redness
Irritation
Swelling
Pain

Licorice can potentially provide a supportive role in the barrier-repair approach attributed to its anti-oxidant as well as anti-inflammatory effects. This can literally be very beneficial after any pimple when inflammation may still be there even though the pimple has gone away.

This can be a very valuable ingredient for an acne care product by helping to modulate the redness and reducing the inflammation. Some of the popular licorice based products for skincare are formulated with common active ingredients such as

Cica
Niacinamide
Ceramides
Panthenol

Such thoughtfully curated preparations can help target pigmentation as well as damage the barrier.

Top Product Recommendations For Licorice Skincare Products India

1. The Derma Co 10% Cica-Glow Face Serum

This serum is enriched with the goodness of Licorice extract, Cica, Tranexamic acid, Kojic acid and Alpha arbutin. It mainly focuses on acne-related inflammation as well as skin brightening.

2. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum

This retinoid based serum is suitable for nighttime application. It offers the benefits of key actives such as retinol, niacinamide in a blend with licorice root extract.

3. Dr. Sheth's Liquorice & Lactic Acid Face Peel

The face peel formula by Dr. Sheth presents the goodness of niacinamide for deep hydration, lactic acid for gentle exfoliation and calendula extract with licorice extract acne marks to brighten as well as soothe the skin barrier with utmost acne care.

4. Jovees Insta Fair Liquorice Glow Pack

It is a face pack formula designed with the powers of bearberries, arbutin, multani mitti, and calamine with the licorice extract to help target the excessive melanin production and enhance the natural radiance of the skin barrier.

5. Himalaya Men Power Glow Licorice Face Wash

It is a herbal formula that gently removes the dirt, oils, sweat from the skin providing the additional benefits of alfalfa and wood apple to improve the natural glow of the skin.

How To Incorporate Licorice In Your Daily Skincare Routine For Acne?

Daytime Routine

You can start with a gentle cleanser
Then, apply Alite Anti-Acne Gel on the active pimples
Apply a liquorice extract based serum on the face
Layer the skin barrier with a non-comedogenic moisturizer
Finish with the sunscreen application

Night Routine

Cleanse gently to remove sunscreen, makeup as well as daily buildup.
Apply your liquorice serum
Follow with a barrier-supporting moisturiser

For Face Pack Application

Cleanse the face with a face wash
Smoothly apply a layer of the face pack all over your face
Let it set for a few minutes
Rinse your face with water before it gets completely dry
Apply Alite Anti-Acne Gel to lock in hydration and support the barrier

Possible Side Effects Of Liquorice Extract On Skin

Liquorice is basically a herbal ingredient that may have an hypersensitivity reaction on their skin in certain individuals. It may trigger an immune response that may appear as irritation, redness, itchiness, dryness or burning on the skin.

You are suggested to perform a patch test before using any liquorice based product on your skin. If your skin becomes increasingly inflamed, it is advisable to discontinue using the product.

Important Tips

Look for a formulation that contains standardized licorice extract in it with a high grade of safety, purity and efficacy.
Try to avoid picking, popping or scratching the pimple-prone areas of the skin.
Maintain a consistent plus simple routine with gentle cleanser, hydrating moisturizer as well as sunscreen.
You should focus on management of both the concerns at the same time if you have active acne as well as pigmentation.
Avoid aggressive scrubbing of the compromised skin barrier with painful pimples.
Rapidly switching your skincare regimen is not advisable if you have widespread pigmentation on the skin.
Talk to your doctor in case of severe inflamed pimples, prolonged post-acne marks or permanent scarring on the skin.

Myths & Facts

Myth 1: Mulethi cures pimples on the skin entirely.

Fact: The extract of mulethi may help soothe the inflammation on the skin that is affected by inflamed pimples. Severe acne may still require doctor’s consultation for safe as well as effective acne care.

Myth 2: Liquorice extract helps improve the pigmentation instantly.

Fact: It may help influence the melanin production as well as improve the pigmentation marks due to acne but results appear gradually and vary from person to person.

Myth 3: Natural ingredients are safe for skin

Fact: Botanical ingredients can still produce allergic responses in susceptible individuals. You need to patch test the products first and then you can put it into your daily regimen.

Myth 4: Mulethi can treat hormonal cystic acne.

Fact: Topical liquorice can totally provide beneficial anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties to help soothe the redness as well as irritation on the inflamed acne-prone skin. But, you need to consult a doctor if you have hormonal cystic acne on your skin.

What We Discussed

Liquorice is a traditional herbal ingredient that is now used in the modern skincare formulations for its beneficial properties for fighting acne and pigmentation.
This botanical ingredient helps influence the melanin production and inflammation for reducing the post-acne marks.
Main active compounds that are present inside mulethi extract majorly include glabridin, liquiritin as well as isoliquiritigenin.
Glabridin helps to suppress the enzyme (tyrosinase) involved in melanin production.
Flavonoids that are present in the mulethi extracts provide gentle soothing effects on the skin barrier.
The root extract also helps to soothe the inflammation by adding anti-oxidant support.
The compromised skin barrier may worsen with:
- Over-cleansing
- Harsh scrubbing
- Exfoliating acids.
This may lead to:
- Dryness
- Irritation
- Redness
Many popular skincare brands offer liquorice extract in a blend with ingredients such as:
- Cica
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
- Panthenol, etc.
You can incorporate mulethi for skin into your daytime and evening routine with a simple and easy to follow regimen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ques. How often should I take mulethi to get good results?

Ans. Use a mulethi face pack 2 to 3 times a week. Do not wear powder face masks every day because regular use has the potential to irritate your skin’s protective layer.

Ques. Is there a side effect of mulethi on your skin?

Ans. Mulethi topical is usually safe. There may be an allergy to this plant to susceptible individuals. Long-term use of concentrated herbal products may cause slight skin irritation and redness for some people.

Ques. What kinds of pigmentation can mulethi help with?.

Ans. Mulethi is effective against sun spots (tanning), melasma, age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) such as dark marks left behind by acne.

Ques. Is mulethi really a bleaching agent for skin?

Ans. No. Mulethi does not bleach nor strip the natural pigment from your skin. Instead of this, it suppresses excessive melanin synthesis to improve the skin tone.

Ques. Is mulethi safe to use with sensitive skin?

Ans. Yes, it does have anti-inflammatory properties that help with inflammation so it’s generally safe to use on sensitive skin, but a patch test should be done first.

Ques. What is mulethi’s effect on pigmentation?.

Ans. It acts as a natural tyrosinase inhibitor (glabridin) to fade dark spots and even out skin tone in a very natural way.

Ques. Does Mulethi help with acne marks?

Ans. Mulethi helps to improve the appearance of post-acne dark marks (PIH) by affecting the production of melanin that is mainly responsible behind the PIH.

Ques. Does liquorice extract help with acne?

Ans. Liquorice helps to reduce inflammation, redness as well as it also helps with post-breakout pigmentation.

Ques. When should I visit a skincare specialist?

Ans. You should schedule a visit to your nearest dermatologist as soon as possible if you have acne marks, prolonged scarring or highly inflamed pimples.