Acne Glossary: 30 Skincare Terms Every Acne Sufferer Should Know

Management of acne involves understanding the science related to all aspects of a regimen - from ingredients in skin-care products and medications to routine care habits, all based on skin anatomy and acne progression. It can feel daunting to know where to begin without a plan, so learning your vocabulary is crucial before starting. 

Here, we break down the must-knows about acne: 

Know Your Acne

It’s essential to first determine the type of acne lesion, its root cause and the key acne triggers to fight against it.

Understanding the types of acne

On the basis of type of acne lesion:

Classification highlighting the root cause:

Let’s Understand 30 Key Acne Terms Glossary

This acne vocabulary comprises the terminology with their definitions. 

Terminology Related To Skin Biology 

1. Sebum

Sebum is the protective fluid secreted from the sebaceous glands, temporarily stored in follicular reservoirs of the skin and distributed onto the skin by sebaceous filaments. It is composed of waxy esters, triglycerides, free fatty acids, squalene and cholesterol. Its sole purpose is to lubricate the skin locking with moisture. Carries fat-soluble antioxidants like vitamin E to the skin's surface. 

2. Sebaceous glands

Exocrine (glands with ducts) glands present beneath the topmost layer of the skin responsible for the synthesis and production of sebum. These are attached with the hair follicles to make a pilosebaceous unit. These are sensitive to hormonal fluctuations inside the body. 

3. Pilosebaceous Unit

Sebaceous glands attached to the arrector pili and hair follicle, altogether is referred to as a pilosebaceus unit. It is responsible for:

• Production of sebum
• Supporting hair follicles (goosebumps due to arrector pili)
• Storage of sebum in the follicular reservoir
• Serves as a primary location for formation of acne

4. Hypersebborhoea

The over-production of sebum characterized by the oily and shiny appearance of the skin is referred to as hyperseborrhoea.

5. Desquamation

The process where skin sheds old cells after their maturation for new ones to come to the surface. When there's poor skin cell turnover, the dead flattened keratinized cells adhere to the skin, adding to the clogging of the pores.

6. Clogged Pores

Accumulated dead skin cells, excess sebum, dirt and other impurities in the openings of the hair follicles plugging the walls of the pores in the skin are called clogged pores. These are a key trigger for acne. 

7. Hormonal Imbalance

Consistent fluctuations in the status of the hormonal levels in the body is referred to as ‘hormonal imbalance’.

Certain hormones whose imbalance in the body trigger acne:

• Cortisol:--A stress coping mechanism is activated with the release of 'cortisol’ from the adrenal glands. It binds to the receptors at sebaceous glands and signals the over production of sebum onto the skin surface. 

• Testosterone:-- Increased androgens elevated during the time in puberty, stress and PMOS stimulate the androgen receptors located on the skin’s sebaceous glands, causing them to produce more sebum.

• Progesterone: --Spikes during the luteal phase of the menstrual cycle (the week before your period) causes skin swelling and irritation, trapping the excess sebum inside them.

8. Purging

Skincare purge often arises as a sudden increase of acne after introducing new product onto the skin that accelerates cell turnover. Purging can also be triggered with frequent cleansing of skin or stripping away the skin of its natural oils.  

9. C. acnes

Cutibacterium acnes is an anaerobic bacteria that resides harmlessly in the skin microbiome and feeds on sebum. Its proliferation due to clogged pores with excess sebum can trigger bacterial acne and inflammation.

10. Malessezia

Malassezia furfur is a fungi (yeast) that is responsible for fungal acne on skin. Overgrowth of the fungus inside a clogged hair follicle, blocked with an over-production of oils, manifests as a group of evenly sized, red bumps and pustules, which is associated with an itchy feeling.

Terminology Seen In Anti-Acne Skincare Products/Cosmetics Label and Used As Common Dermatology Terms 

11. Comedogenicity

Comedogenicity describes the extent to which a topical ingredient or product causes pores to become blocked, which can lead to the formation of comedones. This is why it plays such an integral role in how the product or ingredient will interact with your skin’s sebum and cell turnover process.

12. Non-Comedogenic

The word non-comedogenic means that a skin, hair or make-up product is designed to specifically prevent clogged pores that can lead to an acne breakout.

13. Hypoallergenic

It is a specially designed formulation that presents much lower risk of an allergic reaction.

14. Oil Free

Oil Free refers to a skincare product or cosmetic that is formulated with no added plant, mineral or animal oils.

15. Oil Control

A range of specialized skincare ingredients for either decreasing, absorbing or controlling sebum production without striping or compromising skin barrier function. 

16. Soap Free

Skincare formulation meant for cleansing with the absence of harsh saponified alkali salts of fatty acids. 

17. Cruelty Free

This signifies a product as well as its components haven’t been tested on animals during any stage of product development.

18. Alcohol Free

A product is manufactured free of harsh low-molecular weight simple (drying) alcohols or denatured alcohols.

19. pH-Balanced

A skincare product that's designed to have an acidity level that mimics that of the skin. A product that has a high pH (alkaline) or a very low pH (excessively acidic) can throw your skin's acid mantle out of balance.

20. GMP Certified

It means every single step of the production process which is from raw ingredient sourcing to packaging. It is strictly audited to prevent contamination, mix-ups and errors. Indicates high safety, purity and consistency.

Common Ingredients In Anti-Acne Skincare Glossary

21. Salicylic Acid

It gets into your pores to remove and dissolve all that gunk of skin cells and oils clogging them, and it’s like the holy grail for blackheads, whiteheads and uneven skin texture because it can exfoliate the skin walls inside of your pore, which prevents future breakouts from happening.

22. Retinoids 

Retinoids, a family of molecules synthesized from Vitamin A, speed the process of skin cell shedding in a phenomenon called exfoliation to avoid buildup in pores. You may recognize weaker versions, known as retinol, used in cosmetic toners and creams over-the-counter to aid in the removal of skin cells. Stronger molecules in the retinoid family of Vitamin A-such as prescription drugs like Adapalene and Tretinoin-must be closely supervised by a doctor as they are potent and carry risk of severe purging, dry skin and photosensitivity.

23. Benzoyl Peroxide

This powerhouse antibacterial and releases oxygen to pores, tackling C. Acne. Bacteria can’t survive in an oxygen-rich zone, thus reducing pus and inflamed red bumps.

24. Sulphur

This would be a great alternative to both benzoyl peroxide and concentrated salicylic acid for someone that cannot tolerate either of these on their skin, it is a keratolytic, antimicrobial, and also oil-attracting to instantly absorb and dry out pimples.

25. Niacinamide PC 

This highly purified Vitamin B3 formula has been specially optimized to maximize its benefits while avoiding flushing and irritation, common in some inferior grades. It has been shown to have anti-acne properties that are similar to those of antibiotic topicals like 1% Clindamycin. Aids in the prevention of as many as 60% of inflammatory acne lesions, controls the secretion of sebum. Reinforces the skin barrier to lock in moisture.

26. D.S.B. C (Silanediol Salicylate)

A revolutionary silanol agent which provides a dual action: cellular restructuring with the soothing effects of salicylic acid into one bio-active molecule. A well-known pure form of salicylic acid can dry or flake the skin but the combination molecule directly stops the inflammation response and actually repair cellular damage by increasing collagen and stimulating cell signaling for defence against environmental damage.

27. Azelaic Acid

It's a mild exfoliator, a redness reducer, a tyrosinase inhibitor and it is used because it can handle PIH, which stands for Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. It is also great because it can help calm the irritated skin, normalize the cells and help to reduce the redness in the areas around acne scar.

28. Activated Charcoal

Activated charcoal is a powerful detoxifier which has adsorbent properties. It takes up the excess sebum from the skin and helps in removal of the dirt, pollutants, toxins and other residual impurities from the skin with its magnetic action.

29. Contacticel

The ultra efficient dermo-purifying barrier, which fights against oxidation due to urban pollution, and against alteration of squalene. Your skin is purified, mattified and protected from urban pollution damage.

30. Melafresh T96

Melafresh T96 – concentrated terpinen-4ol, the active principle of tea tree oil. Its purifying, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory power helps to cleanse breakouts without the sensitivity common with virgin essential oils. It quickly soothes damaged sensitive acne skin.

How Does Alite Help The Acne Sufferers?

Alite offers a dedicated holistic anti-acne range for the skincare enthusiasts who are suffering from acne and the ghosts of it, the dark spots. This wide range of special advanced formulations with amazing and some of the best anti-acne ingredients are designed to suit Indian skin under budget. 

The skincare niches to fight acne by Alite are as follow:

• Cleansers

• 1% Salicylic Acid & Glutathione

The Alite Oil Control Facewash for acne takes away the excess oil from the face, controls the sebum, protects you from acne and helps to clear your face. Enriched with purified water, glycerine, menthol, stearic acid, etc., this facewash will aid the repair of your skin while being very gentle.

• Charcoal & Ceramide

Alite Anti-Acne Face Wash deep cleans pores and provides your acne control ritual with  power packed acne-fighting. It’s formulated with Encapsulated Activated Charcoal, Sebum Control Enzyme, Ceraskin P and hydrating agents for an effective yet gentle wash for acne prone skin. 

• Foaming Face Wash with 4% Glycolic Acid, 1% Salicylic Acid

The lather is pre-whipped and clings to all of the face’s pores. This foam has 4% Glycolic Acid and 1% Salicylic acid to maintain the hydration. It won’t flake off and it won’t sting on the skin as well.

• Neem Face Wash – Niacinamide & Aloe 

Gentle face wash without any soap, which brings you Ayurveda’s most powerful natural antibacterial along with the effectiveness of modern skincare. Kills acne-causing bacteria with Neem, refreshes and hydrates your skin with Aloe Vera and tightens the pores while enhancing brightness with 1% Niacinamide. 

• Gel

Anti-Acne Gel with 5% Niacinamide PC™, 6% Silanediol Salicylate and 1% Contacticel™

Alite Anti-Acne Gel comes to you with a threefold benefit for eliminating acne and stopping acne recurrence. This effective gel with its specialized formula functions through three different ways; firstly, it exfoliates dead skin to clear clogged pores, secondly, it calms inflammation and reduces redness of the skin, and finally, it hydrates your skin to ensure softness without any dryness. Get rid of the menace called acne with the help of Alite Anti-Acne Gel, an amazing blend with three ways of action to clear up the skin.

• Cream

Spots Reduction Cream with 5% Liposomal Tranexamic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin and 4% Niacinamide PC™

Alite Spot Reduction Cream is the repair for skin that has already dealt with their breakouts but is stuck with the remnants. Three actives. Three ways to fade your marks. 5% Liposomal Tranexamic Acid halts pigment signalling deeper in your skin through time-released delivery. 

2% Alpha Arbutin hinders tyrosinase-the culprit behind every dark spot. 4% Niacinamide PC prevents pigment from travelling into your cells. Featherlight. Non-clogging. 

Fitzpatrick III-VI tone-friendly. Dermatologically-tested. Intended to be applied nightly as the last step of the Alite regimen.

• Soaps

• Anti-Acne Soap with Tea tree oil and Salicylic Acid

Alite Anti-Acne Soap with 3x Power to Reduce Acne, Redness and Irritation with broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties combat acne. It helps to regulate oil production. It contains Salicylic acid, Tea tree oil and Glycerin to effectively fight harmful bacteria, fungi and yeasts while being less irritating and non-drying. It has shown 94% success rate in reduction of break-outs, and Dermatologically-Tested, making it suitable for all skin types.

• Antibacterial Soap with Neem and Turmeric

Plant based antiseptic bathing soap made with Neem Liquid Extract + Turmeric Extract (Curcumin) + Olive Oil + Glycerin + Jojoba and Avocado Oils for antibacterial day long care with a healing hydration. Pure soapgrade 1 (TFM NLT 76%). For Face and Body. 

• Antibacterial Soap with Neem and Aloe Vera

An antiseptic bathing soap that’s derived from plant extracts. Contains Neem Oil, Aloe Vera Dry Extract, Glycerin, Olive Oil. Provides antibacterial coverage and also helps repair skin barrier. Made to give the skin antiseptic coverage and soothing moisture. The soap is of grade 1 (NLT 76% TFM). You can use it for both your face and your body.

• Neem, Aloe Vera and Cucumber Face Scrub

Nature’s gift for perfectly even skin, this Neem Face Scrub is sure to be the perfect fit for your quest for flawless clear skin. Pamper your skin with the best mix of Neem Extract, Aloe Vera Extract, Cucumber Extract, and Stearic Acid Green Beds. Dermatologically tested for all skin types and is free from parabens & harmful chemicals.

Key Takeaways

This comprehensive guide helps you master the must knows for an acne-sufferer. It comprises of the following content:

• Categorises different acne lesions, including whiteheads, blackheads, and cystic formations, along with the different factors that cause them.
• Provides definitions for skin biology terms relating to sebum, pores, and the process of skin inflammation.
• Helps decode common skincare product claims on ingredient labels (e.g. PH-balanced, oil-free).
• Outlines commonly-used ingredients found in anti-acne products and describes their functions.
• Details Alite’s all-inclusive acne care system, consisting of skin cleanser, spots reduction gel, creams and daily care products.